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Cyprus Meze Explained: What Arrives and How to Eat It

Cypriot meze is more than just a meal; it's a culinary journey, a social event, and an integral part of the island's hospitality. Understanding what to expect and how to approach this multi-dish feast will enhance your dining experience.

Cyprus Meze Explained: What Arrives and How to Eat It
Photo: Petros3 / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 3.0

The Art of Cypriot Meze

Meze, derived from the Turkish word 'mezze' meaning 'taste' or 'snack,' is a cornerstone of Cypriot dining. It's not merely an appetizer but a progression of small dishes, designed to be shared and savoured over extended periods of conversation and enjoyment. There are typically two main types: meat meze and fish meze, though many establishments offer a mixed option. The key to enjoying meze is patience and a willingness to try a little bit of everything as it arrives.

Starting Your Meze Journey: Dips and Salads

The meze experience usually begins with a selection of fresh salads and an array of traditional dips, accompanied by warm pita bread. These initial offerings are designed to whet your appetite and prepare your palate for the dishes to come.

  • Tzatziki (or Talatouri): A refreshing dip made from strained yogurt, cucumber, garlic, and mint. It's a cooling counterpoint to richer dishes.
  • Hummus: The ubiquitous chickpea dip, blended with tahini, lemon juice, and garlic.
  • Tahini: A rich, nutty paste made from ground sesame seeds, often seasoned with lemon juice and garlic.
  • Taramasalata: A creamy, distinctive dip made from salted cured cod roe, olive oil, lemon juice, and a starchy base (often bread or potato). Its colour can range from pale pink to off-white.
  • Olives: Cypriot olives, often marinated in olive oil and herbs, are a staple.
  • Village Salad (Choriatiki): A fresh, vibrant salad with tomatoes, cucumbers, onions, bell peppers, feta cheese, and often capers, dressed simply with olive oil and oregano.
  • Colocasia (Kolokasi): A root vegetable, similar to taro, often served boiled and dressed with olive oil and lemon.

The Heart of the Meze: Savoury Small Plates

Following the dips and salads, a continuous stream of hot and cold savoury dishes will begin to arrive. The exact composition varies by restaurant and region, but certain items are almost always present.

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Meat Meze Highlights:

  • Halloumi: The island's famous squeaky cheese, typically grilled or fried, often drizzled with lemon juice.
  • Lountza: Smoked and cured pork loin, often grilled.
  • Loukaniko: Traditional Cypriot sausages, usually made with pork, red wine, and coriander seeds.
  • Sheftalia: A unique Cypriot sausage made from minced pork or lamb, mixed with herbs and spices, wrapped in caul fat, and grilled.
  • Souvlaki: Small skewers of grilled marinated pork or chicken.
  • Koftedes: Meatballs, often made with minced pork or beef, herbs, and sometimes grated potato.
  • Afelia: Pork marinated in red wine and coriander seeds, then slow-cooked.
  • Stifado: A rich beef or rabbit stew, slow-cooked with onions, red wine, and spices like cinnamon and cloves.
  • Kleftiko: Lamb, slow-cooked in a traditional clay oven until incredibly tender, often with potatoes and bay leaves. This might be served as a larger portion towards the end.
  • Mousakka: Layers of minced meat, aubergine, and potato, topped with a béchamel sauce and baked.

Fish Meze Highlights:

If you opt for fish meze, expect a similar progression but with a focus on seafood. You might find:

  • Calamari: Fried squid rings.
  • Octopus: Often grilled or marinated in wine and vinegar.
  • Grilled Prawns: Simply grilled with olive oil and lemon.
  • Small Fried Fish: Such as barbouni (red mullet) or marides (whitebait).
  • Mussels: Steamed or cooked in a light sauce.
  • Fish Souvlaki: Skewers of various white fish.

How to Navigate Your Meze

The key to enjoying meze is to pace yourself. It's a marathon, not a sprint. Take small portions of each dish as it arrives, allowing yourself to sample the full range of flavours and textures. Don't feel pressured to finish everything, especially the initial courses, as more substantial dishes will follow. Many locals will tell you that the meze is best enjoyed with good company and plenty of conversation.

Practical Tips for Enjoying Meze

  • Go with an Appetite: Arrive hungry! Meze is a generous meal.
  • Pace Yourself: Eat slowly and enjoy the variety. Don't fill up on the first few dishes.
  • Ask Questions: If you're unsure what a dish is, don't hesitate to ask your server. They are usually happy to explain.
  • Order for Fewer People: If you are a party of four, consider ordering meze for three people, especially if you are not big eaters. Portions are typically very generous.
  • Drinks: Meze pairs wonderfully with local Cypriot wine (especially a dry white or rosé), local beer, or a refreshing glass of water. Some also enjoy it with ouzo or zivania.
  • Dessert: While not typically part of the meze itself, many restaurants will offer a complimentary small dessert at the end, such as fresh fruit or a traditional sweet like glyko tou koutaliou (spoon sweets).
  • Location Matters: For authentic experiences, seek out traditional tavernas, especially in villages like Omodos, Lofou, or Kakopetria in the Troodos Mountains, or along the coast in places like Polis Chrysochous or Zygi for fish meze. Limassol Old Town and the old town areas of Larnaca and Paphos also host excellent meze restaurants.

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